I’m building a door using your setup here, except out of curiosity — and trying to use items I had around — I’ve rigged up a simple homemade linear actuator from an old drill and some threaded rod. Or is it just damaged. very helpful! Worked all as as planned during test. So you have 4×365 = 1460 likes! Life changer to say the least. If you use a motor of a different sort that does not have internal limit switches the you simply add them. The box my timers came in had a place to check CN101A or CN102A. Yet, when I come back to the coop to check operation, usually in the morning. Hi Casey, thanks! I tried with the polarity reversed also, nothing. Much appreciated. Any advice and pictures will be appreciated. Hi Eric, I think you have it exactly right. I’ve updated the wiring diagram to reflect this apparent manufacturing change. Solved the problem….Thank you for this design…I noticed on one review that the SMAKN® DC 12V 2CH 2 Channel Isolated Optocoupler High/Low Level Trigger Relay Module wasn’t rated so high because of the poor quality. Hi Wick. Can you provide any insight into what I might be doing wrong? On both timers. That said, when working with a car battery as the power source, definitely use a fuse holder with a ~5amp fuse so that way if anything burns up from a short circuit, it will only fry the fuse. Hi Wick, Good, we take a look at their advantages, attributes, and the distinguishing factors of the best five automatic chicken door openers. The links to the parts were all active, except the timers came direct from China and took longer than expected. Linear actuator is too long though. Also gonna lookout solar time table switch and setup. However, I left it in the system, knowing that I had a battery drain. I bought the following…. The timers and the SPDT are getting power. I’m going to swap the timers and see if the issue flip-flops to the OPEN timer and report back. I bought 2 and fried one already so i am super hesitant to put power to it now until i am sure. But again make sure the coop doors move easily or else the actuators will draw something closer to their max amps rating. For the timer override you want for door closing, the timer just needs to be inline with the photocell output. Hello Wick, When I put the act. I would imagine from reading the above thread that it can crap out at any time, then you are scrambling to try to remember stuff and figure out what is wrong. If I remember right, when everything is working correctly the green light is ON in standby mode on the relay board, correct? If a high-level trigger isn’t triggering the relay module correctly, that’s the problem. Thanks for writing, have a good one! I wired it up per your diagram then rechecked and noticed I had the timers with the hot on the far left and ground second over so I switched wiring. Any of the options that use a battery will be able to supply enough amps no problem. Try wiring your power source straight to each timer individually with nothing connected to the switched terminals. When they are wired correctly, the relays on the module will make an easily audible click when activated, just like the timers do. The rest of the electronics in this system would work fine for at least a few weeks starting with a fully charged battery, so that tells me the solar controller isn’t disconnecting the solar panel properly. Also look at the Programming page to see how easy it is to set and change times with the Pullet-Shut automatic chicken door. Wick well it is the beginning of winter here in Chicago suburbs and after my system working flawlissly for what 2 years? Could I use this set up to power two linear actuators? Where did I go wrong on basic actuator power before my crucial mistake.? Would I be able rig this up with your set up above? – Manually open and close your chicken coop with a push of a button. Most hardware stores carry them in the small parts drawers, or you can get them on Amazon, Digi-Key etc. What are your thoughts on this? Usually they last for at least several years though. How can I fix this? Any thoughts would be appreciated. The relay module shouldn’t have any flashing lights. Could I send you a pick of everything Ive got wired up? It now comes with good LED indicators and a battery system of 4AA. The door with an opening of 9*13 inches is made from aluminum, will require a … Just out of curiosity before trying out this setup, what would happen if one sets timers to actuate at the same time (or some fault leads to them both triggering at the same time)? I took it all apart, off the coup, brought everything up on a bench, re-wired everything from scratch, got some better wire connectors, but it will not work. The battery died and I recharged it. The SPDT relays make up for the limitations of the digital timers, so that switching polarity to the motor won’t short circuit anything. I’ve removed the built in forward/reverse switch and connected my timer in place of it, Com to switch com, NO to forward & NC to reverse. Thanks for the note! What you really need to do is look at the pin diagram for your specific relay — figure out which pins are coil, common, NO & NC. I’m using the very charge controller you linked to, and oddly, the “load” light stays on around the clock, while the “charge” light is on only during the day (have plenty of sun on the solar panel too).. It could be a bad relay module but again for both relays not to work, that would be pretty odd. Any idea what resistor I should get? I ordered one from Amazon, one day later it was in, and Voila back in buisness all thanks to Master Wick!!! No messy wiring or DIY knowledge required. Important Features When Buying an Automatic Chicken Door. Thanks for your attention at my post, I’ve also ordered the module and will test it by my own. A pre-set or an automatic door will ensure their coop is open and also closed at the right time. The wires typically come as a connected strip but they just tear off easily from each other … think Twizzlers. It makes sense to wire in the switch to use the relay. Run power directly to the NO terminals on the relay, & also to the NC terminals but with reversed polarity. I have wired all components as you depict in your drawing but neither timer is causing a movement of the linear actuator. It’s late at night so I’m very possibly wrong but I believe this gives the same result as your setup, albeit without any protection against motor noise being fed back into the main circuit. Thank you kindly for your help Wick. In 5 years so far of using the automatic coop door we did have 1 chicken die early on. I have one question though- can I add a second actuator to the same power supply/ timer ? Let me know what you find out! DO NOT push in all tabs in … Lighting for our chicken coop design: With so many chicken coop ideas swarming around in my brain, I knew I wanted some kind of lighting. So will others. or know exactly what the problem is. I also have them in most flavors from 1A, 2A, 3A and 4A. It now comes with good LED indicators and a battery system of 4AA. If you have a relay with a coil rated for 12VDC, you actually *can* touch 12VDC from the battery across the coil & it won’t blow up. Doors swinging horizontally so very low load. Automatic Chicken Coop Door inspects and approves each product before it's shipped to ensure customer satisfaction. I just now have replaced the relay as well. Thank you for the simplest, most cost effective set up I’ve yet seen, not to mention showing how to hook everything up! Lots of precautions toward predators, however, there are raccoons in my area and I do not underestimate their persistence. This has cured my problems for now. Am I somehow burning through my components or are they just not sturdily made? Any help would be appreciated, and thanks again for this resource. Wonder if anyone can help. 12VDC(-) > Timer 1 NC > Timer 2 NC I’ve currently purchased the items you’ve listed and will be attempting to install your design on one of my chicken coop doors. I vote defective timer. Very odd. That should do the trick. Yes, there is one green light on the relay module (SMAKN0). Im not using the linear actuator motor by the way, but a smaller 12vdc brushed reversible motor. Then it happened again! Hi Carol, see the caption under the wiring diagram image, & also this section near the top: YET ANOTHER NOTE: Sometime in 2016, apparently whoever manufacturers these CN101A digital timers made a change so the polarity for the two power leads to each timer needs to be reversed from how my timers from 2015 & earlier work. I will order another mod. Even right with the solar controller. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/orpu07f8or2tqho/AABHexLIXOFekyrTcpNV5-MZa?dl=0. Or does each door need a separate system. Good to hear the door worked out, thanks for the comments! Initially the relay has enough power to energize the coil, but the power level drops as soon as the switched load is connected & the relay disconnects, then without the load it has enough power to switch on again & the cycle continues…. Then put criss cross jumpers across PINs 3 to 5 and 4 to 6. Have you considered or thought about adding a little more tech to your door? Yes, that’s correct. The green power light is also still on. I am sure this wasnt of much use to anyone, but short story is: I have blown a little reddish-brown cap, diode or whatever thet are called on four brand new timers trying to power them as shown in the diagram on this page. Have another strange problem. I presume I should invert the two left-side (power) connections to accommodate this difference – do you agree? To “unlock” (for when you want to press “manual” to engage a Timer), you have to press the “C/R”-button four times. Please use these brief instructions for the timer for operating our electric Automatic Chicken Coop Door. So you’d use female plug ends to connect to the pins on that relay (VCC/GRD/IN1/IN2) & strip the other end for use with a spade connector or whatever you’re connecting to. When ones on it will hold open and when it shuts off and the other one turns on it would close it. The downside with that setup is the timer relay & DPDT relay both stay energized for the entire time the door is open, so there’s more power consumption (mainly only an issue for solar power, not dedicated power) & more likelihood for the system to fail — the timers are pretty cheaply made & I’m not convinced they would do well staying powered up for ~12 hours each day. You note in your post that “Sometime in 2016, these CN101A digital timers changes so the two power leads are reversed….” and describe how you revised your post to reflect the (-) is connected on the far left and (+) second from left. Even without charging, this system can operate on a fresh lawn/garden battery for at least a month. Again though the main problem with the photocell method is the power draw — you’d need a dedicated power source or a larger solar panel. I’m assuming you mean the Intermatic ST01. Here is a pick of the door I built. I’d go back & double check everything. I do have a question: This method is by far the least expensive, but if the power goes out, your chicken coop door won’t open/close. Thank you for sharing , BTW, I think I have identified the little bugger that blows. They can give a false dusk signal that locks your chickens out overnight. My power source is solar panel via 12V battery. Sounds like one of the timers is triggering the relay, either due to the timer programming or a malfunctioning timer. Timer 1 & 2 Coms to actuator. The “switched output” wiring on the far right of each timer stays the same. As we all know, chickens are not that bright, having a safety switch should be the next step. Not worried about power outages, but now have to start over with relay and maybe timer(buy again) I see you’ve helped many others with coop door problems and I commend you highly. This is another unit (just a unit, no door) that controls a pre-installed automatic chicken coop door, but at $125, it’s an easier to swallow price than the ChickenGuard. Thanks so much for this write up. As I mention in the instructions, make sure the relay module’s jumper block is set for high-level trigger (jump “Com” & “High” for both S1 & S2). I originally thought I could hardwire that in directly to the actuator, but seeing that both connections have a + charge at rest, I’m assuming I’ll short circuit it if I apply power separately from a switch. Somewhere during the night, the CLOSE time is getting charged. If a timer doesn’t switch at all, reverse power polarity to the timer (swap positive & ground). The buzzing sound usually means the relay isn’t receiving enough amps to stay in the switched state & so it’s cycling on & off very fast. Hi Mike, thanks! The Extreme model comes with a programmable timer with a robust motor. You can strip the wires, or you can find a corresponding female 5.5mm x 2.5mm 12V plug end like this one or one with wires if you prefer. I’m thinking there’s probably a way to handle it with just one timer module but again haven’t had time to sit down & try it out yet… Luckily, winter is coming . So I’m assuming I’m doing something wrong. Maybe the relay was damaged by myself by a short circuit. I wrote another post thanking you because i couldnt find my first post and now i see it . Hi Wick, thanks so much for providing this resource and all of your helpful feedback, it’s made our lives and those of our chickens much more comfortable. Solar lights are a great eco-friendly alternative to traditional wired lights. Neither box was checked. If you have a multimeter, measure continuity (or resistance works too) on each timer’s switched terminals when the timer is activated & see if it’s really switching. Will lift a chicken coop door up to 1kg in weight. There are 4 different ways to set this automatic chicken coop door : 1- Open with light sensor, close with light sensor. Having looked at the powers system, the control system, it is good we look at the operational mechanism. Thank you for the kind note. The relay itself is the key. On the instructions of the controller they state to not switch between forward and reverse too quickly and with my timers the switch between them is instant which I THINK is killing the controllers. Cost is about $11. everything ordered from the amazon links that you posted. Hi Mike, which photocell setup would that be? Hi Ryan, that’s an interesting suggestion. I’m using an Add-a-Motor that switches direction automatically. Thanks for the help. Hi Master Wick, I have a working door ( works off lamp timer). Ok, got the multimeter, found a 12v500ma DC adapter in the garage, wired it all up. It works WONDERFUL!!!! Should work perfectly. Red: indicating danger: the door is open and chickens are out. It's a fantastic believed, as my uncle will explain - He constructed his portable coop within 24 hours. Trying to do manual mode the timer and the relay blink in unison with each other. Not sure if it matters but what Guage wire did you use? Are there any concerns about the force the actuator can apply? You cannot use it in coops far from the electric power source, Click here as we walk you through a detailed review on Add A motor, JVR Chicken Coop Door Automatic Opener Kit. Maybe it was different than what you showed, Will check again. Wick, thanks very much for the post. This is very useful if you live somewhere with a large difference between the summer and winter daylight hours. One other thing to consider before replacing the relay module is make sure whatever power supply you are using is within spec for the relay module. The thought is up here in Washington, daylight lasts till 10pm in June/July, but the hens are always roosted before then and the nocturnal creatures are already out by then, leaving the flock vulnerable. The only low battery issues I’ve seen happen when the timers switch on. The unit just stopped working. I made screenshots of connections, expanded them and printed them in color. It’s working now. We did put the actuator on so it would open/close horizontally. I already have an on/off/on switch that came with the actuator. Hi Paul, that’s a really cool way of wiring the limit switches — your way overrides the timers & uses the relays to cut power — simpler & more straightforward than limit switches on the motor leads end of things. Or is it that the timers output a smaller voltage so the relay is needed to supply the 12v to the actuator? Any suggestions? That does sound like a defective timer. If all that works, then yeah I think it means the #2 timer is providing power all the time regardless whether or not it is triggered. By moving the hinge points (or circles) you can experiment to find hinge points that work. That’s my theory anyway. This article, the updates, the YouTube videos, and comments are all amazing. These lights can help to extend your chickens’ egg production, allowing you to continue collecting farm fresh eggs during the long winter months. Hi Trevor, that typically indicates the timer is faulty. Wick It would be cool to look out the window and have a quick way to see if all is well in the hen house? Hi Bo, I twisted the wires together tightly & then soldered them, & squeezed the solder with flat pliers into a square shape that fits into the terminal block. }, Your email address will not be published. Hi, this is a question pertaining to the D.C. Timer a.k.a cn101a. My new automatic door is working great! Thank you! You can use any size solar panel, although panels over 20W are probably not necessary unless you are using a different system with a higher constant power draw (like a photocell) rather than the two timers. When it comes to the settings of the system, you are not alone. I think the best switch for an override is a single pole double throw (SPDT) momentary switch, like this one. Green is power/standby, red means the relay has been triggered. Good enough it comes with an auto-detection that senses the presence of chicken it is doorways. I do have power in my coop Thank you! My guillotine door was smooth, not frozen closed. If you have a relay with a coil rated for 12VDC, you will hear a loud click when you run 12VDC power to the coil pins. Sometimes that red light will flicker and start to glow brighter, sometimes it stays off. Is there any setting I’m missing on this controller? I agree that delay timer method you described to cut power to the actuator relay(s) is probably the best method in terms of handling the power drain. Just be aware of the pros/cons of each method & choose what works best for the situation. Can you hear the relay switching? Otherwise if you want the lights on longer just add another separate timer for the lights like you mentioned. The timer wiring is the same as before — daisy chain power to each timer, & then to the module. Thanks. It also makes one’s life easier, when you want to go to a movie, go shopping; come home late from the office, or a myriad of other things you do at dusk. Does anyone know how to reset the SMAKN® DC 12V 2CH 2 Channel Isolated Optocoupler? I really like your design and would like to apply it to my 5 stall chicken coop. ), I would add a picture of the wiring but I do not know how to do that in this blog…, Hi Tom, that’s great you got it all working. Hi Patrick, try the video at the end of this blog post (but above the comments) titled “Automatic Chicken Coop Door – Testing Relay Module”. Then in place of the “reversing timer” you’d put the photocell, so the photocell output controls the DPDT relay coil (reversing the polarity) & the limit switches on the linear actuator do the rest. The ChickenGuard Automatic Chicken Coop Door Opener is a good option for anyone looking for a customizable unit. Chicken Guard Automatic Chicken House Pop-Hole Door Opener is a British made pop-hole door opener, with integrated Timer and Light Sensor, in one complete package for easy installation. 1. All my wires are happy and polarity is correct and accounted for. Then if you don’t get any voltage at the relay board outputs, I’d guess then it’s either another bad relay board, or a problem with the power supply. I am looking on YouTube and everyone has the negative or their black wire on the far left side of the timer. I think the main issue there is your way energizes the DPDT relay coil for the entire time the door is open (or closed, depending on what cycle you wire the relay to reverse polarity for). Thank you for this. Hi Aaron, good question. With two lights on the mod, it’s hard to see it as defective…. I can’t believe it, my chicken coop closing days are over! I thought I had a bad relay module but I bought a second relay and it is still occurring. I purchases a 100w solar panel with a 30A charger(Max output 30A). Hi Glenace, just from my own experience & from what others have written, the CN101 timers are very cheaply made. If I push the button the setting does not change. Any questions or comments, let me know! It comes with an excellent light sensor and different options of power supply for you to make a choice. The board has the green light lit and the timers are set. Here’s pencil and paper method: “Model each of the parts as circles with their centers representing the hinge points. Dave, Wouldn’t I need power at dawn (to open) and again at dark ( to close). I bought a photocell similar to the others posted by Tom and Mike, as well as a timer. The past two mornings however it has stopped a few seconds into the opening. Hi Joyce, the only timers I’ve seen available are SPST, meaning they only switch one wire (“single pole”), & only on or off (“single throw”). Will install in coop tomorrow. This year a bunch of people have left similar comments about the timer power polarity, so today I changed my wiring diagram. Keep in mind the relay module needs it’s own dedicated, unswitched power source as shown in my wiring diagram. Basically you solder a diode across each microswitch between the “common” & “normally closed” terminals, with the diodes in the opposite direction from each other, so power can still make a circuit across the microswitch when you reverse the actuator away from the limit. Maybe that could help you help me troubleshoot the issue. Just a note about components: I have replaced timers at least 6 times in the last 4 years – I use the CN101 – and now keep some ‘on hand’ for failures. I looked at some pictures of the CN101A timers being sold on Amazon, and notice some other manufacturers have the (+) is on the far left followed by the (-) on the second from left position. No sound, no smell, only indication something was wrong was the timer lit up its indicator light when set to “auto” _and_ when set to “off” even though there was no “auto” (programming) set for the timer. The problem is since this module is not clock-based, you have to trigger it at the specific time you want each event cycle to occur. Arduino Chicken Coop Door LEDs Status: Green: indicating the door is closed and chickens are safely inside. I’ve never had low battery/voltage problems make the timers not able to switch off. Thanks. Previously I had the power to each timer wired the other way, which is how the CN101A timers I purchased in 2015 & earlier years worked. . When you’re done setting the event start info, press “P” again & set the same info for the event’s end time. I shut power off to the system via the charge controller and turn it back on. Answering your questions: you can have one 12VDC power source do everything. There’s a jumper block to select the trigger type. There are so many quality-oriented details that we've had to create a Quality page just for it. | | Hi Chad, I’d try triggering the relay module manually rather than using the timers — keep all the wiring the same (even the timers can stay connected), but jump positive power straight to the IN1/IN2 terminals (one at a time). So for instance if you want the door to open at 6AM & close at 9PM, for setup you’d have to actually be there to trigger the module at both of those times. Hello there, Good luck! Hmm sounds like it. 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Indicator on the contacts so eventually it doesn ’ t photocell just work as a switch automatically... In chicken house or enclosure honeywell blog on my solar display, run ( )! Micro switches into the drill chuck because it kept coming out while the. Have the timers charging, but here were my issues: 1 troubleshoot... Does it turn off or continue to drain power relay wired as an H-bridge ”.! I wanted to use a motor of a timer say the timers do have a defective timer or yet. Questions: you can use wire connector for 12VDC very cloudy weather, also during winter getting sufficient light be... A schedule setup to close it ( outward setting ) ve needed a automatic coop door LEDs Status::... & stay out LATE KNOWING your chickens out overnight recently, but I think they learn... And other maintenance settings are still active failsafe inbuilt so im not using timer. Me to send them pictures of the writeup great build and sharing with others even... This photocell https: //elsine.en.alibaba.com/product/1829253184-800658192/CN101A_Digital_Weekly_Programmable_Electronic_Timer_Switch_THC_101A_.html, L701: https: //www.youtube.com/watch? v=essJUqUZRCI would. Hi Jesse, I review you answer but can ’ t be intimidated to do it without like! I made two videos for you!!!!!!!!!!!.

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